2023 is over, thank gaga, and we are rolling out the red carpet for a new year, new opportunities and new life. In this transitional phase, where it's easy to get swept up in all the change and excitement, it is always beneficial to reflect on the previous 12 months of your life and think 'what went well?' and 'what didn't work out so well?'. My input to this will be reflecting on some of the most significant moments in the fashion world, in 2023, and sharing with you my thoughts and feelings. This is only part 1, so don't forget to catch more in the next part.
You're welcome (oh and have a fabulous new year) XOXO
1/13
Beyonce devours on her 'Renaissance' world tour
In March of this year, Beyonce teased a new dawn as she graced the cover of British Vogue's April edition, in which she mounted a disco horse, perhaps foreshadowing the moment we would see only a few months later, where she quite literally takes off on a glittering, flying, disco horse. We knew from the moment she stepped out on stage, night 1 in Stockholm, that she came to serve looks. She played into camp, she gave us ultra glamorous, she threw in some throwbacks, she perfectly honoured black designers and overall, she just did the damn thing. She wore many pieces multiple times, but from night 1 to the final show, she kept giving us more, building up one of the top wardrobes we could only dream of. This rotation includes dozens of pieces, all couture, 1-of-1 or iconic archival moments. Now hold on to your seatbelt while I list out some of the top fashion houses Miss Knowles collaborated with: Mugler, Valentino, Gucci, Loewe, Ralph Lauren, Balmain, Balenciaga, Diesel, Vera Wang, Alexander McQueen, Tiffany & Co, Carolina Herrera, Nina Ricci, Rabanne, Miu Miu, Louis Vuitton, Acne Studios, Ferregamo, Iris Van Herpen, Stella McCartney, Fendi, Vivienne Westwood, Roksanda and Coperni (among many others). Phew!! If that list doesn't blow your brains, I don't know what will. Not only was this tour iconic, as a melting pot of all of Bey's eras and albums in one, but it was monumental - thanks Adele - for the fashion world too. We haven't seen an artist take the international stage with this many beautifully crafted, provocatively inspired and showstopping looks since... umm, ever??? This lookbook will go down in the history books, as well as the tour it accompanied. Spoiler alert: I will be posting a complete rundown of the tour wardrobe in the new year, because Queen B deserves more than just a mention.
2/13
Kylie Jenner in a Schiaparelli lion's head
If you had told me last year that I would even be considering calling one of the Kardashian-Jenner's a 'style icon' in 2023, I would have laughed in your face. However, at the Schiaparelli Haute Couture show in Paris this January, it was Kylie who showed up to let us know she is not to be underestimated. She wore a black gown, with a life-size (faux) lion's head attached to it - designed by Schiaparelli's Daniel Roseberry - which was one of the most gossip-worthy looks of the same show she was attending (worn on the runway by Irina Shayk). It was one of three pieces Daniel designed for this collection, the other two being a wolf's head gown (modeled by Naomi Campbell) and a snow leopard's head gown (modeled by Shalom Harlow). This was the first of many moments this year that slowly but surely solidified Kylie in the high fashion world, she got down and dirty for a promotional shoot with Acne Studios, modelling with herself?? She channeled old Hollywood Glamour in a sequinned Schiaparelli gown, with a plunging neckline and keyhole cutout - almost reminiscent of a Marilyn Monroe dress - that she wore to Daniel Roseberry's Spring/Summer 2024 presentation (the show that made us all question if the wrong Jenner sister became a top model...) among many other moments, all of which culminated in October, when she launched her own clothing line - Khy. All in all, this has been a great year for Kylie and I'm optimistic to see where she takes her career in 2024.
3/13
Sarah Jessica Parker back on set as Carrie Bradshaw
Are you really a New Yorker if you haven't seen SJP flitting around Manhattan on a random Tuesday?? It seems that Carrie Bradshaw (Sarah's most vivacious and famous role) has become a NYC icon and legend, known for her absolutely fabulous wardrobe and her fondness of a cosmopolitan. Carrie and SJP go hand in hand, one is the other and vice versa, which means when you watch Carrie, you see Sarah, and when you see Sarah, you meet Carrie. Part of this is due to such an incredible rotation of outfits seen on the character over 6 seasons and 2 movies of 'Sex And The City', which have created trends and sparked conversations every year since the show first aired. In 2021, we finally got more content from Carrie's world in the form of a reboot 'And Just Like That' which saw Charlotte and Miranda take on New York with Carrie, post covid and as women in their 50's. The huge shift in the world and the characters life felt real and natural, yet the costume department kept the core of our loveable characters in tact, with SJP's wardrobe feeling very reminiscent of an early 2000's Carrie. The fabulous Patricia Field - who styled Carrie all through her 'Sex And The City' adventures, passed the baton on (with full approval and trust) to Molly Rogers and Danny Santiago for the reboot, and we have not been let down. Carrie Bradshaw is a character that dresses to make a statement, who wouldn't have let her age come in the way of her youthful, vibrant, joyful approach to fashion, which especially shows in the second season of AJLT (which aired this fall). It was a moment for women to realise they don't have to change themselves simply because they are becoming older, and of course, it was an excuse to see the iconic SJP back on set in some fabulous outfits, from her gorgeous Vivienne Westwood wedding gown to the staple Manolo Blahniks, or Gucci gloves to rubber kitchen gloves.
4/13
Naomi Campbell trading in her dignity for PLT flop
In 2023, the topic of sustainability in fashion has never been more relevant, with more people than ever deciding to stoop shopping fast-fashion, everyone becoming aware that we must make a collective effort to reduce the amount we purchase. As a global fashion mogul with incredible influence and power that goes far beyond that of your regular model, Naomi Campbell should be a trailblazer for doing the right thing in fashion. Furthermore, Naomi has always been seen as a woman of elegance, class, grace and respect, one that seems to choose morals and integrity over a cheque - she is recorded in countless scenarios talking about global issues and sustainability in fashion. In July however, Naomi (who is synonymous with luxury fashion), announced a collaboration with fast-fashion supervillain: Pretty Little Thing. From the moment the news was posted, everyone went wild, immediately aware that Campbell had cashed out on a major cheque, in return, losing the respect of millions. After the backlash that Kourtney Kardashian Barker faced as she collaborated with BooHoo (the company that own PLT), you would think celebrities would be much more conscious of their decisions and the impact they have on the industry - as well as their careers. Let me shock you for a minute; Pretty Little Thing produce 54 MILLION items of clothing annually, add 1000's of new styles to their site every single week, sell garments for £0.09 on Black Friday, pay it's garment makers £3.50 an hour(!!!!! which is well into illegal territory) and that is the tip of the iceberg. Ironically, Naomi's disgusting collaboration came out in September, which was being dubbed 'Secondhand September' as the fashion industry is trying to move towards a greener, sustainable future. The collection was relatively exciting and for a brief moment, it was plausible that Naomi wanted to bring high fashion and her personal style to the masses, at an accessible price point, but this is so obviously an excuse and nothing more. Naomi will absolutely be aware that PLT make 99% of their clothes from plastics, which aren't built to last, nor marketed to the consumers to even be worn more than once, therefore contributing heavily to the 92 million tons of clothing that end up in landfill, every single year, yet she still decided to work closely with this brand and promote buying fashion this way. Disappointing.
5/13
Anok Yai for Mugler
After Bella Hadid winning 'Model of the Year' at the BFA's in 2022, the world was excited to see who would take the title next. An immediate stand-out was Anok Yai. She has been rising in the industry since she was discovered at a university homecoming party, making iconic moves like opening the Prada show as the first black model since Naomi Campbell or shooting the cover of American Vogue three times. Anok wants to spread the message that a black woman's beauty is something that deserves to be celebrated and she is taking the fashion world by storm doing so. Perhaps the most iconic moment of her year, was closing the Mugler Spring/Summer 24 show, designed by the incredible Casey Cadwallader, where Anok emerged at the end of the show, no lighting so you could only see her silhouette, with metres of flowing fabric blowing in the air behind her, then the flickering lights revealed her glowing, dressed in a leotard style piece, with the fabric wrapped around her, ombreing from black to a dark yellow-gold. She commanded attention and stunned everyone so much so that it became the most talked about fashion moment for weeks. For this runway - along with everything else Anok stands for and did this year - I believe she is unequivocally the people's Model Of The Year (regardless of what BFA had to say).
6/13
Michelle Yeoh in Dior Haute Couture at the Oscars
One of the most talked about movies this awards season was 'Everything Everywhere All At Once' in which actress Michelle Yeoh portrays a laundromat owner who is thrown into the multiverse. This film was fantastical, whimsical and emotional for viewers, but it was also monumental in the acting industry, as it swept the Oscars, winning Best Picture; Supporting Actress, Supporting Actor (for Ke Huy Quan), Screenplay and Director. On top of this, Michelle Yeoh won Best Actress for her role, becoming the first Asian Identifying nominee to win the award. She arrived at the Oscars red carpet with a look to rival the iconic win later that evening: A Dior Haute Couture gown created specially by Maria Grazia Chiuri. This piece was made at the Dior Couture Atelier and featured layers on layers of feathers made in an ivory silk organza which covered the entirity of the white gown. Michelle stunned in many gorgeous pieces this year, from Schiaparelli to Carolina Herrera, but this Dior Couture gown was the highlight in my eyes.
7/13
Ann Demeulemeester feather top (on runway and Hunter Schafer)
A literal feather that barely covers your nipples for $2000 ??? I'll take two. This year saw the incredible Ludovic de Saint Sernin reveal his first and only collection as creative director for Ann Demeulemeester, before handing the keys over to Stefano Gallici. This collection was sexy, dramatic, shockingly stripped back and was responsible for one of the biggest conversation starters of the year: the 'Noucky Feather Top', which is quite literally a leather feather, on a leather strap, period. This makes sense for 2023, as we have slowly seen the micro skirt gain popularity, particularly after it's appearances in Miu Miu's shows during 2021/22 and the Diesel shows in 2022, which took the micro-skirt and made a 'belt skirt' - this fascination around barely there clothing has culminated in this feather bra by Ludovic de Saint Sernin, which seems a fitting continuation of the micro clothing trend. On the runway, the micro-bra was paired with a floor-length low waisted silk skirt - which further accentuated the length of the torso, a striking visual - seen on the model Lainey Hearn who opened the show with the full look in black and closed the show with the same look in white. Demeulemeester used the feather as a recurring motif across many of her collections, so it was powerful to see Ludovic recreate an iconic staple of the brands legacy, in his unique way, which fittingly closed out the show as well as his time at the label. Controversy arose around the look, as it was suggested the piece wasn't 'wearable' or 'accessible' for anyone that isn't a size 00, but it's fashion !! It's meant to create an illusion, a fantasy, a statement. Why can't we just see something beautiful as just that? Well, as the fashionably challenged among us were complaining, we were blessed with the look's first red carpet outing, on the stunning Hunter Schafer, who wore the ensemble in its white iteration to the annual Vanity Fair Oscars After Party. She styled the look with perfectly undone hair, resembling the thrown together energy of the show which presented the piece.
8/13
Rihanna showing up at the Met Gala an hour late in Valentino Haute Couture
Over the past few years, thanks to looks like her Pope-inspired Margiela ensemble for 'Heavenly Bodies' and the infamous yellow train by Guo Pei at 'China: Through The Looking Glass' Rihanna has become the most anticipated guest at the Met Gala. Every year, the internet watches eagerly from every corner of the earth - personally, when in London, I stay up through the night - with the hopes that Rihanna will show up and shut down the carpet, blessing us with yet another fashion moment for the history books. This year, with the theme being 'Karl Lagerfeld: A Line Of Beauty', it was more uncertain than usual to guess what guests would be wearing, and if Rihanna would even show up at all... The carpet opened, all the guests climbed the stairs, we were told that it was over, everyone was in and the carpet was closed. But no Rihanna? Twitter immediately decided she wasn't coming, so most of us tuned out and cut our losses, however, paparazzi images came at 10pm, that showed Rihanna and A$AP Rocky leaving a hotel near the Met. The first look of the night was fabulously simple, a perfect tribute to Karl: she stepped out of the hotel in a divine archival fur coat that Karl designed for Fendi in Fall 1997. This was elegant, chic and classy, unlike the couples time keeping skills, but we push onwards. Arriving at the gala, Rihanna appeared on the steps in a large coat-like cape, which was wrapped around her. It was adorned in dozens of camellia appliques (the iconic flower that any fashion lover immediately associates with Karl - the inspiration for the exhibit being revealed that night) which she accessorised by adding large sunglasses with false eyelashes!! As she reached the first set of steps, she opened up the cape to fully reveal a Valentino Haute Couture wedding dress, made in a silk faille, with a train almost as long as the wait for her arrival - and a drop waist to once again showcase her baby bump. The reveal was absolutely worth the wait, which almost added to the intrigue and excitement around Rihanna's attendance, but next year, please don't make us wait all night.
9/13
Zendaya in Rahul Mishra at NMACC Gala
This year saw the NMACC Gala hit the mainstream, internationally, which is an amazing change as we finally got to witness and learn more about fashion culture in India, particularly traditional Indian dress, textiles and craft, and their impact on the fashion scene globally. Among many Indian actresses, designers and prominent figures in the cultural landscape of India, a large selection of American and European celebrities were also invited to celebrate the opening of the NMACC (Nita Mukesh Ambani Cultural Centre). It was refreshing and beautiful to see many guests in attendance take on traditional clothing from India and show the utmost respect for the culture and craft of said pieces. Many icons attended and rocked the carpet, including Disha Patani in a stunning sari and Gigi Hadid in Abu Jani Sandeep Kholsa. My 'best dressed' of the night has to go, without a doubt, to Zendaya. She wore custom Rahul Mishra, in the form of an elegant midnight-blue sari and skirt, which were both hand-embroidered with stars, astrological motifs and intricate florals. We know Zendaya can match any theme given to her, but this look really put her on top once again. It was powerful to see her showcase an incredible Indian designer, blend in perfectly with the night and pay her respect to everything it stood for.
10/13
The Andiamo Bag by Bottega Veneta becomes the it-bag of the year
Seen first on the shoulder of designer bag icon Jacob Elordi in paparazzi photos, the Andiamo bag by Bottega Veneta very quickly became the bag on the top of everyone's wish list. It was first shown during the Spring/Summer 23 collection and took off immediately as a must-have in 2023, seen on Rosie Huntington Whiteley, Michelle Yeoh and Omar Apollo among countless others, the Andiamo bag had an air of exclusivity and elegance, uncommon for a tote. The bag comes in a curated selection of around 8 colours, all muted, deep, earthy, neutral tones and the bag sports no branding or logos, which could be another reason it was loved by the masses, who were all gagged over the 'quiet luxury' and 'stealth wealth' trends. I picked this bag up in it's medium size, in 'Barolo' - a gorgeously rich red-y wine colour - and it has become on of my favourites. The excellent craftsmanship and quality leather creates a reliable, lasting bag and the intricate weave pattern and quirky hardware adds some intrigue to seperate this bag from other luxury totes on the market.
11/13
Niawurh Chuol and Adut Akech for Moschino
In an era where brands seem exhausted (creatively), it is showing on the carpet. Almost every runway show seems to blend into one, the pieces looking like they are knockoffs of themselves, brands performing empty stunts attempting to grab a viral moment - desperate to stay relevant - and even, models all walking in the same bland, uninspired way that really drive home the message that you won't feel magical or sexy in these clothes. Essentially, nothing on the runway is thrilling to us anymore, gone are the days of Shalom Harlow overtaking and spinning with Amber Valetta or Naomi Campbell holding a gun for Versace. However, in the Moschino Spring/Summer 24 show, the rising model 'Niawurh Chuol' and industry star 'Adut Akech' made the whole industry look as they walked down the runway with fire in their eyes, movement in their hips and an individual expression which raises the question: 'Are Supermodels Coming Back?'. Perhaps, with brands like Moschino giving models some creative freedom, they could be...
12/13
Doja Cat as Choupette in Oscar De La Renta
This May, the annual Met Gala was held, raising funds for this year's exhibit in honour of the late Karl Lagerfeld - the fashion icon that worked behind many iconic brands including Chanel and Chloe - and it was a theme that inspired some fabulous looks. Some of the most iconic looks of the night, came in feline form, as several guest decided to pull inspiration from Karl's cat: Choupette. Jared Leto arrived in a life-sized cat costume, Lil Nas X graced the carpet in a thong and whiskers, but it was Doja Cat - fittingly - who was the top cat. In a hand-beaded hooded gown by Oscar De La Renta, Doja took to the steps in character as Karl's companion, even meowing in response to interview questions, which only added to the internet storm that naturally occurred the moment Doja was seen. A pretty impressive turn out for her first Met Gala, which ironically was likely her last. But that's a story for another day.
13/13
Anok Yai at the Met Gala
Yes, many attendees like to play into the camp, gimick-y, overly literal or costume-y at the Met Gala, but the majority stick to the theme in a serious sense. This Prabal Gurung piece was inspired by Karl's Haute Couture collections for Chanel (particularly this Cindy Crawford look in the 1993 collection), imagining a 'girl emerging out of the water and onto the steps' of the Met. It felt almost like the Kim Kardashian 'Mugler' look from the 2019 gala, done with eleganceand opulence in mind, not to mention with the perfect amount of Karl chic that makes this piece so extravegant. The dress was so immaculately tailored to Anok's body that she looked almost ethereal, with every extremity of her being exaggerated and beautifully sculpted. Underneath the fabulous cocktail dress - as an entirely separate piece - is a chocolate brown silk tulle skirt embroidered with sequins to create uniformity with the main body of the look, which extends out as a train and levels up this ensemble from a cocktail dress to a Met Gala look that lands at the top of my best dressed. Styled with many silver and diamond rings, a dark mesh glove and most importantly a dramatic yet refined headpiece: brown mesh sunglasses that curved upwards at their sides, again creating exaggerated lines and sculpting the face.
All in all, this year has been quite a wild ride for fashion and I have a feeling that 2024 will be just as eventful. A girl can hope! This post is only part 1 of my Top Fashion Moments of 2023, so go and check out the next part here.
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